Graz: European Culture Capital 2003 - June 2003      Last Updated: 30-July-03

Graz was declared the only European Culture Capital for 2003. The reason was that Graz has one of the best-kept Middle Age and Renaissance city cores. On June 14, Birgit Maderl had arranged a small walking tour led by one of her former teacher. A total of about 20 people attended consisting of family, friends and co-workers. This guided tour showed all of us new things about Graz that we had never paid attention to. For example, we did not know that the city of Graz is trying to sell one of the main downtown buildings for only one Euro, provided it is properly restored (until now no buyer has been found). Nor did we ever pay much attention to the faces that can be seen just under the roof of many of the buildings (which are basically to ward off evil). In May I had visited a few sites, and also tried to capture the colored night illumination of the town. The photographs below are an extract from all those visits.

It is quite amazing what all has been arranged for the European Culture Capital event. The clock tower has currently a shadow which was already sold to - and will be installed after 2003 at - a shopping center southwest of Graz. A glass elevator has been installed near Jakominiplatz, so one can look down Herrengasse almost the same way as the statue of Mary for only 1 Euro per ascent.

Numerous statues have been installed in different squares, streets and courtyards. They range from deconstructed military jet, 2 ton metal bodies and 5 connected ladders to Unicorn-Christmas-Tree, warped street and 6 feet of Murnockerl (stones).

A public island has been installed in the Mur river including a stage, cafe, etc. It is actually more like a float, because it can rise and lower with the water level by 15 feet. One of the main attraction on Mur Insel are the water closets which are viewed by everyone who hears about it (often in groups).

In honor of the 2003 event, Graz also gets a new Kunst Haus (Art House), which is a very organic looking glass building and is widely discussed as to what it actually represents. An existing metal storefront from the early 1900 has been integrated. The glass is intended to reflect the downtown area, and thus connect both sides of the Mur. The building is supposed to be completed in the Fall of 2003.

Exhibits run from Mountain of Memories (a collection of Graz memories from late 19th century to today in the former air shelter in the Schlossberg - the mountain in the middle of the city) and Art about Marquis de Sade to Himmelschwer (as heavy as heaven or sky). The whole year sees special exhibits of numerous subjects and by many international artists.

Overall, much exciting art is happening in Graz and there really should be something for everyone. Just from our group we had all ages on an outdoor living art scaffolding. We even saw a very large ad for it in Vienna reading "Wien ist der schoenste Vorort von Graz" (Vienna is the most beautiful suburb of Graz).

Our tour guide (black shoulder bag) and group  All listening closely while a tram goes by 
Uhrturmschatten (clock tower shadow)  Glass Elevator  Deconstructed military jet 
Faces along the rafters 
How many faces do you see?  Wrapped asphalt street  ???  2 ton body as part of Himmelschwer  Also hanging from the rafters in the courtyard  Does he look familiar? 
This piece seems to consist of more than 100 figures which are occasionally rearranged  Window in another courtyard 

Betreten [NICHT?] sinnlos (entering [not?] senseless) - can be found at the outdoor living scaffolding  which was fun for kids of all ages 
girls    and boys 

Many of us never were in the cathedral and certainly never before climbed the tower with some very unique paintings  The view from the top is wonderful  in all directions 
The attic of the cathedral also houses the central glass ladder of Himmelschwer 
The others  can be found 
on the roofs  around 

Artist's rendition of the Kunsthaus  Status May 2003 

Murinsel from Schlossberg  and from ground level 
from the North 
Stage and seating 
Walkway toward stage  and from stage 
Stage Right  Construction detail 
Cafe seating  Bar 
Line to see the bathroom  Inside  Looking out 

Underneath the clock tower  Mountain of Memories  Collection of everyday items and recorded interviews  Sometimes in very creative form 
Including Graffiti. For example: Jetzt reichts mir! Ich scheiss auf Alles und werde erwachsen! (I've got enough! I shit on everything and grow up!)  OR wo Cobain ein Wienerschnitzel mit Erbsenreis bestellte (where Cobain ordered a Wienerschnitzel with rice with peas) 

After the tour we all went to DomBraeu and Scott and Roswitha had Weisswurst and Vanillebuchteln  
An expert peeling Weisswurst  He knows what he is doing! 

03 is the logo on the Culture Capital Information center and the local verbal abbreviation  Cityhall  Church and bridge  The clocktower is illuminated in redish yellow  Some green and blue lights 

 

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